Chalk up two more surfing locations for this girl. While I did not hit up all my surf camp goals (did not go to Canary Islands or Bali) last year, I did get invited to a wonderful opportunity so now I can say I have surfed in the following locations, in order:
- North Shore, Oahu. May-June 2013
- Ericeira, Portugal. July 2013.
- Seal Rocks, Australia. December 2013.
- Main Beach, Gold Coast, Australia. January 2014.
It’s some cold winter months now, so I will work on staying in shape, and plan out a better surf trip for late Spring, early Summer in the northern hemisphere this year. Maybe back out to Portugal… maybe to the Canary Islands this time.
The picture above is at Main Beach, where me and a boyfriend rented a surfboard, and ended up trying to surf in a riptide because neither of us was a waterbaby. It was mild enough that day, so it wasn’t dangerous, just a nuisance.
While we saw the warning flag, we thought we’d walked past it far enough to be out of the danger zone. At some point we heard lifeguards driving up to beachgoers down a ways and warning them to wait a bit for currents or the tide to shift. They saw us, we were sure, and I kept my eye personally on a couple other people playing sports in the waves near us. When I didn’t see everyone emptying the water, I figured we were fine. The guy we rented the board from told us afterwards. I want to give him benefit of the doubt, that he only noticed at the end… but I wonder if he didn’t tell us, so that we are more inclined to invest in a guided lesson next time?
I wouldn’t begrudge the lesson. Until I can live by an ocean for a year or so, I find it difficult to learn all the nuances.
It was a glorious trip, and the best part was the surf camp at Seal Rocks.
Wallis Lake, next door, had bioluminescent algae and shallow warm water we waded through, sprinting and enjoying the stars above and the glimmer below. It was all dreadfully romantic and comfortable.
I had the most fun in that part of Australia. In Brisbane and Gold Coast, my allergies were triggered by something, proving once again that nothing can be picture-perfect.
From our relationships with each other to the way we view ourselves, there are flaws, cracks, and imperfections. There are many moments where I sigh and doubt. But in spite of this, I am somewhat excited for this year, a year of trying something new, a new relationship, more surfing, and a new job. To the future! Salud!